Introduction
So you're happily hacking away at your neighbours PS2 console on a desk with next to no visible whitespace. Quite suddenly, the DVD spindle motor (conveniently still connected to the mainboard) somehow manages to slip off the edge of the table, severing the flexfoil ribbon connecting it to the PS2's control logic...
Looks like you're about to get your ass kicked into the next dimension!
So, what are your options at this point?
- Buy a replacement console
- Find and buy a replacement part from Ebay, stall your neighbour until it arrives
- Remove the flexfoil entirely, and use wire to reconnect/hardwire it to the control logic
- Redeem yourself by repairing the foil
- Laugh at the word "spindle"
We can eliminate
options 1 & 2, as there's no way in hell we're spending money on someone elses shit.
Option 3 is also unacceptable, as wires are for non-men. That only leaves
options 4 & 5, both equally acceptable - We'll be focussing on
option 4 (Repair the foil) as laughing is beyond the scope of this article.
Let's begin!
Step 1 - Edge preparation
We need to make the severed edges as "clean" as possible. The easiest way to do this is with a stanley knife, although an x-acto knife will work just as well, assuming you're not a walrus. Remember, you want to keep as much foil available as possible, so trim the absolute minimum to get as straight an edge as possible
The above tool is also capable of tearing a rift in the space-time continuum
Now we have a nice clean edge to work with in preparation for the next step
Step 2 - Exposing the traces
Now that we have a clean edge, we can start scraping a few millimeters off the insulation in attempt to expose part of the underlying traces. Again we use a stanley or X-Acto knife, gently scraping away at
both the top and bottom sides of
both halves of the flexfoil. You can also achieve the same result with fine sandpaper and a steady hand (if you have some available)
Too much pressure and you'll easily sever the traces, too little and you'll scrape for ages
You should end up with about 3mm of exposed trace on each side
Step 3 - Preparing to fuse both halves together
Now the fun begins. Both halves of the flexfoil will need to have the exposed "pads" pre-tinned with solder before we're able to join them (you do remember how to tin, don't you?) You'll need some decent rosin-based solder flux, I prefer to use AMTECH flux available in syringes from
Howard Electronics. Apply the flux to both the upper and lower "pads" you've created on the edge of the foil, then
GENTLY tin them with your soldering iron, set the dial to 320-350C if you have a temperature-contolled iron available
Try not to touch the foil with the tip of your iron, create a small ball of solder on the tip first
...Then gently move it across the pads until they're shiny and tinned, the plastic may melt slightly
Step 4 - Alignment and soldering
Nearly done! Use anything you have available to hold and align the edges as close together as humanly possible. Both edges can be overlapped (one ontop of the other) for a sturdier join - The heat applied by the iron to the traces above will reflow the solder on the underlying traces. Don't forget to flux up!
Alignment needs to be closer than this, of course!
Start with the outer pads first to lock both ends into place, then work your way inwards
Step 5 - Finishing up
We're done! A good idea would be to insulate the exposed traces, you can use tape, but I'd prefer to use epoxy or Araldite adhesive (2 part mix) - This will both insulate and bond both halves together tightly, very useful for mobile devices.
A couple of drops of Araldite adhesive applied with a modified Q-Tip
The finished product! Not even close to the original, but that's your fault
